Nang Nak : Mae Nak

The story of Mae Nak Phra Khanong (or simply Mae Nak) is a well known and popular Thai ghost story. The period of the original legend is uncertain, with some commentators placing it in the 18th century Ayutthaya period, and others placing it later, in the 19th century. But the story seems consistent, and concerns the beautiful Mae Nak (or "Mother Nak"), a native of Phra Khanong district in Bangkok, and her husband Mak.

With Nak pregnant, Mak is called off to war (in some versions of the story the war is against the Burmese, while others are not specific), and is severely injured. While he is recovering, Nak and the child she is carrying die in childbirth and are buried by neighbors. But when Mak eventually returns home he finds his loving wife and his new child waiting for him. Neighbors who try to tell Mak of the death of his wife and to warn him that he is living with her ghost meet with grisly ends. Eventually, Mak learns the truth, and flees to the temple of Wat Mahabut, where Nak follows, and the story only ends when Nak's ghost is exorcised and she is convinced to leave for the next life.

Though there is no evidence that the legend has any basis in truth, there is a shrine dedicated to Mae Nak at Wat Mahabut (which was situated in the Phra Khanong district until a 1997 boundary change placed it in neighboring Suan Luang district - much to the consternation of the people of Phra Khanong).

The Shrine of Mae Nak

The shrine of Mae Nak can be found at Wat Mahabut, which is down a small soi (side road) off Sukhumvit soi 77, also known as Onnut Road (sometimes spelled "Onnuj" or "On Nut"). Probably the easiest way to get there is to take the Sukhumvit line of the BTS Sky Train all the way to its terminal station at Onnut, then backtrack a short way until you reach Onnut Road (Sukhumvit 77) on the north side of the road. About 1km down Onnut road, on the left, you will find a small lane signposted as soi 7. Wat Mahabut and the Mae Nak shrine are to be found at the end of the lane, with the shrine at the far side of the compound near the canal known as Klong Phra Khanong.
In addition to adorning the statue of Mae Nak and her baby, which forms the centerpiece of the shrine, with gold leaf, the faithful also donate gifts of clothing to her ghost (she has a collection of fine dresses hung behind her statue) and toys for her child. There are stalls at the shrine selling toys if you should wish to make an offering.